Painting gun

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by shaggy_77777, Dec 31, 2013.

  1. shaggy_77777

    shaggy_77777 New Member

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    Painting my gun for a more customized look. How would I do this? Do I need specific paint? I only wanna do a few places like the end cap on my slide and possibly the grip.
     
  2. rob306

    rob306 New Member

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    I recently painted my xd9 with Duracoat's Shake n Spray. I followed direction/video, and I couldn't be happier. Looks professional and no drips or runs.
     

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  3. Juice

    Juice New Member

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    I cerakoted mine, cerakote is supposed to be way better than dura coat, I highly recommend it as I use it on a weekly basis in my shop, visit cerakote.com to learn more ImageUploadedByXD Forum1389197937.687508.jpg ImageUploadedByXD Forum1389197949.277630.jpg
     
  4. en7kids

    en7kids New Member

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    It is pricey but good investment. I priced my slide at $189.
     
  5. nukembig

    nukembig New Member

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    Duracoat and Durabake are great because you can purchase it, and apply them yourself (I did my Saiga AK stock and forearm with them). The problem with them is they do show wear and they scratch. My opinion (for what it's worth) is to go with the Cerakote. It is much more resilient, but can only be applied by Cerakote trained professionals. There are a couple of folks on ebay that offer Cerakote jobs for uppers or slides, but the Cerakote website lists all Cerakote trained technicians by state so you don't have to worry about shipping lowers while complying with FFL regulations if they are located close to you.
     

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    Last edited: Jan 11, 2014
  6. Juice

    Juice New Member

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    Somebody quoted you $189 for just the slide? That's extremely overpriced. I own a shop and I use cerakote almost weekly, I use it for automotive applications not guns, but I did cerakote a few of my own guns. Dura coat is more user friendly, cerakote isn't all that tough to apply but does require some skill and the initial output of things you'd need to buy wouldn't be worth it unless you had a bunch of guns to do. Cerakote definitely handles scratches better and is more durable but if you're looking for something on the cheaper side and quicker go with the duracoat. My opinion is bias because I work with the stuff every week but I say go with the cerakote if you have the option but don't pay $189 for a slide that's highway robbery.
     
  7. agalindo

    agalindo New Member

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    Juice, I looked into doing cerakote a while back and it was pretty expensive. Can I ask you to guess at what it would take to setup something to do small parts like pistols now a days. I've done molly resin, duracote, gunkote, hot bluing, and parkerizing before and have what's needed for those precesses.

    shaggy, if you want to do something like duracote, gunkote, or moly resin you will need a way to remove the old finish, sand blasting is the best. FYI not bead basting. Blast the metal parts only. Not the polymer.
    Polymer just degrease real good.

    Then you need:
    1. rubber golves
    2. air brush. I used a cheap harbor freight one
    3. acetone to degrease the parts.
    4. finish (molly resin, duracote, gunkote etc..)
    5. black wire to hang the parts to paint and dry.

    I personally like molly resin it's the toughest finish I've used. Draw back is you have to bake it so it's not polymer friendly.

    If your baking I would suggest going to a thrift shop and getting a used toaster oven large enough to fit you parts and a good thermometer.
     
  8. Juice

    Juice New Member

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    Sounds like you have everything, sandblaster, compressor, paint gun, airbrush gun, acetone, degrease tank, hanging wire, oven( if you do the H series) that's pretty much it, watch the videos on cerakote.com it'll show you everything
     
  9. agalindo

    agalindo New Member

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    Thanks, I'll go to the site and look for the vids.